Ravigote in 3 Stages

Following a colour theme of sorts, everyone is adding Salsa Verde to whatever they can get their hands on these days. If the palate is getting a bit tired of Salsa Verde, throw in some boiled eggs fine chopped and you have Sauce Grebiche (to the puritans amongst you: just go with it!)

However, a new black has arrived and it is distinctly green (if you follow my logic): Sauce Ravigote. Its name sings of Old France, minstrels, la dame à la Licorne or maybe it was because I had it first in the Loire Valley surrounded by magical chateaux. 

 

Ravigote Sauce should be an accompaniment to calf’s head but I have put it together with just potatoes and a simple roast chicken. The reason (you need a reason?): I have neither time nor will to boil a whole head of calf, roll up the meat, braise it with some root vegetables and then thinly slice it even before I have started the sauce (which technically is thinned with some of the liquor that comes from the meat), oh no. Using it this way will make for an easy Friday night supper if you have had a busy day and are expecting guests.

 

Ravigote is a mustard, shallot and herb based vinaigrette, the spice and pungency from the mustard is tempered by the sweet tarragon and peppered parsley herbs and the thinning of the cooking liquid. In this case I am taking the liquid that comes from the chicken at the bottom of the roaster and thinning it with a little wine and a bit of stock to get a liquor of sorts that can be comparable to the meat liquor. I like waxier potatoes like Charlottes for this dish.

 

Ravigote Sauce in three stages

1Tbsp Dijon Mustard

1 Banana (Escallion) Shallot fine diced (if you like it less pungent rinse it two or three times in cold water and pat dry)

1 tspn each of Parsley and tarragon (chervil and chives can also be used) fine chopped

1 Tbsp White wine vinegar

A squeeze of lemon juice

A pinch of salt

3Tbsp Olive Oil

1 chicken

2 cubes of frozen chicken stock (if you have a tub of fresh stock pour it into ice cube tray and freeze as this reduces any waste of stock you have when you only need a small amount)

White wine

500g potatoes such as new potatoes or Charlotte potatoes

Oven to 180C (375F, Gas 4)

Stage 1:

Massage the chicken with oil and season the skin. Turn upside down on a trivet and roast for three quarters of the cooking time before turning over to crisp the skin. (I work to about 17 minutes to the pound). Remove from the oven when cooked and set aside in a warm place to rest. Deglaze the pan with white wine (about a small glassful) add the stock. Pour liquid into a jug and hold whilst making the vinaigrette.

Stage 2:

Boil the potatoes until nicely nutty and cooked thoroughly. Drain and slice either in half length ways or into discs about 1cm thick.

Stage 3:

Put a pinch of salt in the bottom of a small bowl. Add the Dijon mustard, the vinegar and the lemon juice. Stir well. Continue stirring while drizzling in the olive oil until it is a thick emulsion. Add the chopped shallot and herbs and stir.

 

Carve the chicken, catching any more of the juices that come from it. Pour all the juices into the vinaigrette and stir in well.

 

Arrange the chicken and potatoes on a warm plate and drizzle or spoon with sauce.

 

This is a zingy treat to contrast with the creaminess of the meat and potatoes; little fuss and more time to spare for the all important drink with friends. Digest and dream of castles, unicorns and chivalrous France.