Saturday 23 August 2014

Lamb Shank Spanish Style in 3 Steps

Lamb, slow cooked, either over a water bath or in a casserole; lamb so succulent that it falls off the bone, offers itself to you... now that’s lamb! An autumnal snap has chilled the air (thanks to a hurricane crossing the seas and bringing Scandinavian cool air to our once warm climes) and I have made a supper that lends itself to this change of temperature (and yes, it’s lamb).

Paprika spice and orange perfumes infuse the kitchen with a warm enveloping welcome, or so I imagine, that and a meaty scent of lamb bathed, in part, in aromatic sherry. Memories of student days in Seville (a love affair for me as moody and intense as Flamenco) arise from the orange and Amontillado, the spice hinting at Spain’s east where it is produced. My sherry glass on the side (the ‘support’ during my preparation) reminds me of my local barman’s phrase: “one glass for each leg or you will walk home with a limp”. This is a dish light enough not to forget that summer was only a couple of weeks ago (and should still be here) but rich enough to shake off that goose-bump cool need for woolly warmth.

I served this with sautéed potatoes garnished with a tired red pepper I found in the back of the fridge and fried off (but a timbale of stock infused paella rice or maybe plain bulgar wheat would just as well to absorb the sauce).   

Lamb Shank in a Spanish Style in 3 stages

2 Lamb Shanks
1 Carrot chopped
1 Onion chopped
2 Celery Sticks chopped
1 Tbsp Tomato Puree (heaped)
2-3 Cloves Garlic, crushed
1 Tbsp Honey
3-4 strips of Orange Zest pith removed
500ml Chicken Stock
250ml Sherry (Amontillado)
250ml White Wine
2 Tbsp Sherry Vinegar
Pinch Cayenne Pepper
Olive Oil
Parsley
1 Red Pepper finely sliced (optional)
A handful of pitted Black Olives (optional)

Preheat the oven to 125C (250F, Gas 1)

Stage 1:
Chop the vegetables, crush the garlic and zest the orange. Mix the stock and wine/sherry, spices, zest, tomato puree and honey in a jug. Slice the skin of the shank on the back ridge and on the inside to help release the meat. Prep done.

Stage 2:
Put some oil in a frying pan and bring to a moderate temperature. Sweat the carrot first, until it starts to turn golden then add the celery and onion and cook until translucent. Add to the casserole. Pour in a light glug of oil and turn up the heat. Once the oil is shimmering, season the meat then brown it all over. Place on top of the sweated vegetables then pour in the liquid, put the lid on and place in the oven. Cook for 3 – 4 hours (depending on how large the shanks are). About 30 minutes before the end of cooking time you should start to cook the potatoes, rice or bulgar wheat, and red pepper and store in a warm place.

Stage 3:
Once the meat is cooked and wanting to drop off the bone, carefully lift it out to a board or plate, strain the juices into a pan. Return the meat to the casserole with the lid on and keep in a warm place (back in the oven with the door ajar works well). Put the pan with the sauce on to reduce. Keep this going until it reaches a single cream consistency. Finely chop parsley for added garnish.

On a warm plate place the lamb shank and carefully pour the sauce around the meat and sprinkle parsley over the plate (and olives or sautéed red pepper if using).

The succulent meat is enhanced by the honeyed tomato, the smoke and pepper prickle warmth of the spice and the orange and woody sherry perfumes in the sauce; flavours on the plate that dance dainty Sevillanas on the palate. Drink with a young Rioja or even sherry.

 



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